Las Posadas in Mexico: 9 Days of Christmas Celebrations

The first time I truly understood Las Posadas in Mexico was while walking through the neighborhoods behind Barrio Santa María in Puerto Vallarta. The scent of burning copal, a sacred incense from Mayan times, drifted through the streets as grandmothers carried stone incense burners, glowing with hot coals. Children and adults followed with lit candles and oversized inflatable stars, singing call-and-response carols that echoed off the colorful houses.

At the end of the procession, everyone gathered around a long table for steaming cups of ponche, the cinnamon-spiced hot fruit punch central to Posada gatherings, and plates of tamales and sugar-dusted buñuelos, still warm from the fryer.

It was noisy, smoky, chaotic, and beautiful, everything Christmas in Mexico tends to be. What stood out most was the sense of community. You didn’t need tickets; there was no stage or scripted program. People were simply there to share the night together.

What Are Las Posadas?

Las Posadas are a nine-night celebration held from December 16 to 24, reenacting the journey of Mary and Joseph as they searched for shelter on their way to Bethlehem before the birth of Jesus. The word posada means “inn” or “lodging,” and the nine nights symbolize the nine months of Mary’s pregnancy, building toward Christmas Eve, or Nochebuena.

Though most closely associated with Mexico, Posadas are also celebrated in Guatemala and in some communities across the southwestern United States, where the tradition was carried by Spanish settlers and later Mexican families.

The tradition dates back to the colonial era, when Spanish missionaries introduced Nativity-themed processions and misa de aguinaldo (pre-Christmas masses). These blended with existing Indigenous winter traditions centered around light, incense, and community gatherings, creating the unique celebration practiced today.

The nightly procession is the core of the tradition. A group carrying figures of Mary and Joseph, or with people dressed to represent them, walks from house to house, singing verses asking for shelter. In many communities, the song La Canción Para Pedir Posada is used as the call-and-response between the travelers outside and the hosts inside. From inside, the host family responds with verses denying entry, reenacting the rejections Mary and Joseph faced on their journey. This continues until the final home welcomes the group inside, marking the moment when the reenactment turns to celebration.

Inside, guests and hosts join in short prayers or carols before moving into the festive part of the evening, the breaking of the seven-point star piñata. Traditionally linked to the star of Bethlehem that guided the Wise Men, the seven points are commonly interpreted as symbols of the seven deadly sins. Children are blindfolded, which represents the need for faith, and they take turns swinging at the piñata until it breaks. The falling sweets symbolize divine grace and blessings shared with the community.

Afterward, the gathering becomes a shared meal, often with tamales, buñuelos, and warm drinks like ponche or atole, reinforcing the hospitality that defines Posadas.

Food & Drink: What to Expect at a Posada

Food is deeply woven into the Posada experience.

• Tamales - masa dough wrapped in corn husks (or banana leaves in some southern regions), filled with meats, sauces or sweet fillings, steamed and served hot.
• Buñuelos – thin fried pastries, often sprinkled with sugar or cinnamon, sometimes drizzled with honey-like piloncillo syrup.
• Ponche - warm fruit punch simmered with cinnamon, cloves, tejocote fruit, guava, apples, and sugarcane.

In some regions, tamales may be replaced by pozole, roasted corn, or sweet breads. Atole is another warm drink served during Posadas.

Modern-Day Posada Celebrations

Today, Las Posadas vary widely from region to region and from neighborhood to neighborhood. In many places, traditional house-to-house processions still take place. In others, public Posadas unfold in town plazas, church courtyards, or community centers.

In residential neighborhoods, Posadas often rotate from one house to another over the nine nights. The procession winds through the streets with candles, sparklers, and lanterns. I’ve joined Posadas that lasted until long after midnight, where neighbors pulled extra chairs onto the street as new people joined in.

Schools and workplaces host secular versions with raffles, karaoke, gift exchanges, and food that feels like a communal potluck. Major cities such as Mexico City, Guanajuato, Puebla, Oaxaca, and Puerto Vallarta also host large public Posadas in plazas and historic centers, with staged reenactments, fireworks, and musicians. Even gated communities and expat neighborhoods now host Posadas, though the atmosphere, at least in my experience, never feels as electric as the ones rooted in the streets where generations gather.

What Visitors Should Know

If you are going to be in Mexico between December 16 and 24, here are some tips:

• Posadas are not scheduled events, routes and start times are spontaneous.
• Most begin around dusk and follow paths through the community.
• Look for them in parish courtyards, town plazas, and residential streets, just listen for singing and watch for candles.
• Participation is welcomed. Bring a small gift, like cookies, fruit, or candy for children. Ask before taking photos, especially of children.
• During songs or prayers, simply stand quietly if you don’t know the words.
• Posada evenings are loud, social, and unpredictable. Fireworks (cohetes) begin early and end late. Entire streets may shut down as processions move slowly behind candles and song.

How to Participate Respectfully in Las Posadas

Respect means presence rather than performance. Follow the lead of the group, put phones away during prayers, accept the offered food even if only a taste, ask before photographing children, and never attempt to take over singing or organize the event. Participation is welcome, interruption is not.

Driving & Travel Considerations

Traveling during Posadas requires patience. Street closures often happen without notice, especially in historic districts. Fireworks can distract drivers, and holiday gatherings increase alcohol-related risks. If traveling at night, allow extra time or consider parking and walking. Build a buffer into airport transfers and intercity travel. Caution is the safest approach during these nights.

Much like that first night in Puerto Vallarta, Posadas leave an impression that lasts long after the candles burn out. It isn’t the music or the food that stays with you, but the feeling of being welcomed into a celebration that has connected families and neighbors for generations. For many travelers, sharing in that warmth becomes the most memorable part of the season.

You can experience it yourself here on YouTube, including the making of ponche…

Frequently Asked Questions About Las Posadas

1. Can tourists join a Posada? Yes. Public Posadas welcome everyone, and private Posadas generally include friends, neighbors, and guests. Participation is a gesture of respect and connection.

2. Do I need to be Catholic to participate? No. Many who join are cultural participants rather than religious ones, particularly expats and travelers.

3. Where can visitors experience Posadas? The best places are parish courtyards, neighborhood plazas, and the historic center of most towns. Cities known for vibrant Posadas include Mexico City (Coyoacán and Centro Histórico), Guanajuato, San Miguel de Allende, Puebla, Oaxaca City, Guadalajara, and Puerto Vallarta. In smaller towns, from Pátzcuaro and Tlaquepaque to Taxco, Zacatlán, and San Cristóbal de las Casas, processions move through the streets without announcement. The best strategy is to go to the town square around dusk and follow the sound. There are no formal schedules, and that’s part of the magic.

4. Is it safe to drive during Posadas? Yes, but with caution. Expect pedestrians, fireworks, and sudden road closures.

5. What should I bring? Pastries, fruit, or candy if invited. Your presence is more important than a gift.

6. What should I wear? Comfortable shoes, layers for cool nights, and modest clothing appropriate for community settings.